Not sure which needle to use for machine embroidery? This guide explains the difference between embroidery and sewing needles, and shows you exactly which needle types and sizes to use for different fabrics from cotton to jersey and canvas.
If you're new to machine embroidery, you might wonder: are embroidery needles really different from regular sewing needles? The short answer is yes, and using the right needle can make a big difference in the quality of your stitching, the look of your design, and how well your machine runs.
Here’s what you need to know.
What Is a Machine Embroidery Needle?
Machine embroidery needles are designed specifically for high-speed stitching on embroidery machines. They’re built to handle:
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Thicker threads like rayon or polyester embroidery thread
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Fast, repetitive motion without breaking or shredding thread
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Delicate or stretchy fabrics often used in embroidery projects
Key features of a machine embroidery needle:
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Larger eye – to reduce friction and thread breakage
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Smoother scarf (groove) – for less skipped stitches
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Slightly rounded tip – gentle on fabric while still piercing it cleanly
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Often colour-coded by size (e.g. 75/11 or 90/14)
How Is It Different from a Regular Sewing Needle?
Sewing needles for your machine are designed for general sewing tasks like seams, hems, and basic stitching. They work well with regular sewing thread, but aren’t ideal for embroidery.
Key differences:
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Smaller eye – not suited for thicker embroidery threads
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Different groove design – can lead to more thread fraying or skipping
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Sharper point – may damage delicate embroidery fabrics
Using the correct needle type and size for your fabric is essential in machine embroidery. It helps prevent skipped stitches, thread breakage, and fabric damage.
Here’s a breakdown of common fabric types and the recommended embroidery needle for each
Lightweight Fabrics (e.g. cotton lawn, voile, silk)-
Needle Type: Embroidery needle
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Size: 70/10 or 75/11
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Why: These needles have a smaller point and larger eye, perfect for delicate fabrics and finer threads.
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Needle Type: Embroidery needle
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Size: 75/11
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Why: A good all-round choice for general embroidery. Works well with standard rayon or polyester thread on everyday garments.
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Needle Type: Embroidery needle or Topstitch needle
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Size: 90/14 or 100/16
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Why: Larger needles handle thicker fabrics and heavier threads without bending or skipping.
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Needle Type: Ballpoint embroidery needle or Stretch needle
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Size: 75/11 or 80/12
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Why: Ballpoint tips slide between fibres without piercing them, which helps avoid holes or puckering.
At Velvora Customs, we always use proper machine embroidery needles when stitching on hoodies, sweatshirts, or custom designs. Using the wrong needle, even if it “works” can lead to broken threads, puckered fabric, or uneven stitching. It’s a small detail that makes a big difference in quality.
In short:
Machine embroidery needles are not the same as regular sewing needles. They’re designed to work with embroidery thread, embroidery machines, and the types of fabric used in personalised stitching.